Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Review: Vogue Italia September 2014

Yes, I know the October edition is already out, but I've only just got my hands on this one! No, seriously, I've been going through press shops all over the place. It's funny; you'll see plenty of Italian labelled foods in grocery stores, but go into a random press shop and chances are there'll only be a handful of Italian magazines, none of which I recognize. Yes, it's probably my fault for not going out to Zaventem and having a look, but I just can't be bothered with riding the bus.

And then my mother had told me about some hole-in-the-wall shop that boasted the letters 'EUROPRESS' on its window. I assumed they'd have some European press there. It was rather close to the Schuman area and the European institutions after all. So there I went, and OH MY GOSH, THERE IT IS! There were even two of them!

Then my joy diminished for a while, because the thing really is heavy. The mag itself is 884 pages thick, and then it comes with the Alta Moda supplement (112 pages), the Accessory mag (336), and some newspaper-like thing that's a collaboration between Samsung and Vogue to showcase new designers (34), which, admittedly, I wasn't at all interested in. I offered it to my mother to read (it's in English, by the way), she refused, and it ended up joining my collection of old newspapers and unwanted flyers: under the litter box.

Unabashedly, I only buy Vogue Italia for the ads and the editorials; I can't read Italian. If I hadn't just spent 10,50€ on this thing, I would've ripped out the entire, article-filled, small-Italian-brand-advertising middle section. It's mostly a bunch of profiles of various women, titled One Hundred and More Icons, and illustrated by photos for which the ladies had posed for Vogue. Out of all of them, I'd only heard of about half of them: Beyoncé, Björk (who I always thought Bill Kaulitz of Tokio Hotel looked like. And then coincidentally, as I landed on her page, a Tokio Hotel song started playing), Princess Caroline of Monaco, Daphne Guinness, Dita Von Teese, Liz Taylor, Fan Bingbing, Grace Coddington, Iman, Jennifer Lawrence, Kerry Washington, Maria Callas, and Uma Thurman, among others. I wasn't really sure what the point of this was; these women are all famous and the one-page articles on them summed up their accomplishments. Cool, but I wouldn't call all of them icons; Hilary Swank, for example, is included. Sure, she's won an Oscar, and was the face of a Guerlain perfume, but so what? Not really iconic levels to me.

Granted, I am rather pleased with the ads displayed in this issue. I've finally found some Burberry ones that I don't completely dislike. The Blumarine adverts are gorgeous and I don't think I've seen them before. Alberta Ferretti was looking amazing. I was happy to see my gorgeous Ymre Stiekema in Kocca ads, though she wasn't looking as good as I know she can.

The issue does feel celebratory to me: there are plenty of throwback pictures (the 'icons' series that I mentioned, a 'beauty' series and a 'portfolio' series with vintage and more recent photos), but also plenty of new ones (the cover editorial with the 50 models, a moody, Lindbergh lensed spread (this might sound odd, but when I saw it, the first thing I thought was that Mariacarla was some sort of haggard refugee that had beautiful clothes), and a hauntingly gorgeous Roversi edit). I loved all the old photos, especially the ones with the young Supers, Kate Moss (I can't believe how effortlessly cool she's always been), and Alek Wek (who I'd love to see so much more), and the new ones were stunning as well (especially the Roversi editorial).

The Alta Moda supplement is exquisite as per usual. I actually semi appreciated Nadja Bender in her spread.

Overall, this issue was a pleasure to flip through and I can't wait to rip it up! (<- that's a good thing)

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