Saturday, January 17, 2015

Review: Fall/Winter 2014

It’s that time of year again (no, I'm not talking about Christmas), where I get to dwell on last season’s campaigns as we all get bombarded by new ones. And boy, are we in for a new season full of disappointment. So, let’s all dwell on the past, shall we?

Alexander McQueen: I like the designs. I like Steven Klein. I like lounging about. I don't like Edie Campbell, but I don't even mind her here.

Balenciaga: Another Steven Klein campaign, but one I'm a little more iffy about. The clothes I wasn't keen on, however I will say I was pleasantly surprised at Gisele's transformation, and there's a new spin on the mirror concept. But some of the shots come across as "trying too hard" or "not trying hard enough" somehow.

Burberry: Ew, Suki Waterhouse. Yay, Malaika. Other than the aforementioned Suki, this is probably the most enjoyable a Burberry campaign has been in years for me. There's movement, and even Cara looks good (though the models are usually making the same faces in each shot)

 Bottega Veneta: just when I thought I'd toned down my Edie Campbell dislike to indifference, this David Sims campaign comes out. Alright, perhaps she's meant to look like a mannequin or something, but that doesn't mean she has to emote like one! If you want to see how the mannequin concept is really done, check out Versace FW14 by Mert & Marcus.

Calvin Klein: I mentioned in one of my posts that I think that Vanessa Axente is very beautiful, but that her beauty can be hit or miss to me. This is a perfect example of it missing, missing as if it hadn't even been present in the first place. She looks haggard, and even worse, average.

Chanel: I remember being indifferent to this campaign when this came out. Never mind the fact that I could never imagine Cara or Binx as proper boxers, but the setting just seemed ugly and wrong. But after seeing the entire campaign, some shots are more enjoyable than others.

 Dolce & Gabbana: *sigh* D&G have a lot going for them: their designs are consistently pretty, I like Bianca (but sob regularly over Monica's absence), and their campaigns usually try to be fun. But the "fun" gets so over the top that it becomes absurd. Why are there orange vendors in the enchanted forest? Why does Claudia grin like a loon? Why? Just...why?

 Dior: I struggle with Raf Simons' aesthetic a lot. His clothes attempt originality at the expense of beauty and his campaigns are so white and bland and sterile that it makes me want to jump into a mud puddle. Fei Fei looks good though.
 DSquared²: I didn't see much of this campaign in print (admittedly, I've been trying to cut down on my magazine spending), but I do like the concept of a glamorous...victim (not sure what to call her)? Amanda Murphy's bland as can be, though. I'm not sure whether that's on purpose or her range coming to its limit.

David Yurman: if it isn't broke, don't fix it. It isn't broke.

Fendi: I groan every time I see Nadja Bender. I'm not as familiar with Ashleigh Good,  but she didn't save this campaign. As dull as dishwater.

 Giorgio Armani: I don't usually remark on Armani campaigns because they usually all look the same with only a modicum of difference. This season's modicum of difference is Marikka Juhler's beauty. I've no idea what drew me in (her polaroids aren't outstanding), but I found myself collecting Armani ads for the first time in a long time.

 Givenchy: Somehow, all of this works: the loud prints, the velvety setting, the multiple models...I've no idea how. Kendall sticks out like a sore thumb, however; she doesn't know how to do the Givenchy Death StareTM.

 Gucci: Multi-girl campaigns are usually great and this one is no exception. The only bad thing is that if one girl is not as good as the others, it'll look 10x worse (case in point: Kendall above). In this case, it was Joan Smalls. The retoucher must have really hated her.

 Giuseppe Zanotti: I'd complain about all of the whiteness, but to be honest, it only makes the shoes and Andreea's dark head stand out more. And I like seeing Andreea.

Kenzo: Love me some kooky Kenzo.

La Perla: magnificent and sensual black and white adverts. The diversity of the casting is nice, too!

Louis Vuitton: It's no secret that I love Bruce Weber's work, and out of the three photographers that were enlisted to shoot for Nicholas Ghesquière's premier collection for Louis Vuitton, it's not surprising that I liked his the best. Granted, Annie Leibovtiz and Juergen Teller's shots were true to their aesthetics, but not so much to the brand's.
Roberto Cavalli: I don't understand this casting, I don't understand this styling, I just don't understand! I do like the eyewear shots, though.

Stella McCartney: I love stars and I love Kate.

Versace: Now this is how you pretend to be a mannequin! You don't need to be completely stiff and blank! Change up the poses, change up the expression. Make me want the clothes.
Anyway, I do believe Lara (<3) could have added a whole new level of intensity to this, and why keep Stella in the same outfit in each shot?

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